Note: These Iran Chronicles are actually copied from a series of emails to my friend. But even then I only managed to write until day 4 of the trip, in total i was in Iran for 10 days. I'm too lazy to continue where I've left off, its been almost 2 years. So I guess this will be an incomplete series of my entries on Iran. oh well. Something is better than nothing.
Abyaneh & Esfahan
Day 4 continued
Next it was about 2.5 hours drive to Abyaneh village.. The reason we had to hire a driver and car was because this place was out of the way, while making our way to Esfahan. I slept all the way during the drive. It was super cold in Abyaneh, and the place was literally empty, either that or most of the villagers are hiding inside their houses, hehe.
Inline image 1Inline image 4Inline image 3Inline image 2
Then it was another 2 hours drive to Esfahan. Otw from Abyaneh to Esfahan, we pass through the Natanz area. In case you're not familiar with Iran's nuclear program, Natanz is where their uranium enrichment facility is located at. I've heard stories of tourists being caught or deported right away from Iran when they were caught taking pictures from the bus or the car they were travelling in while passing through this area. I was really looking forward to having a look at the nuclear facility actually, but i ended up sleeping the whole way again, so missed totally missed it. haha. oh well. Sometime during the drive from Kashan to Abyaneh to Esfahan, i was in contact with my host in Esfahan, I gave her number to our driver and vice versa, so they could contact each other since i didnt have a local sim card. By the time we reached Esfahan, we waited somewhere near the bus stop for Mohamad our host to pick us up.
We paid our driver, went to Mohamad's car and we drove around Esfahan. Mohamad is currently doing his Masters in English literature, and the week we were there was his finals, so he was supposed to be studying. hahahahha. but he was kind enough to host us. He told us that when his girlfriend Somy (the original host that I requested to surf with) asked whether he could host us instead because she had guests in her house, he was very excited because we were Malaysians, and instantly agreed. He's a funny guy really, kept saying OMG all the time. Traffic was crazy that night, as always according to Mohamad, what more it was rush hour after working hours.
We decided to drive around Esfahan, while waiting for Somy to finish work at 6pm. By the time we picked her up, we were famished. We havent had a proper meal since morning, only munching on dried apples slices we bought in Abyaneh and a box of assorted nuts (walnuts, pistachio, berries, peanuts) given to us by Hamoon. Infact, our driver actually told Mohamad when he was 'handing us over' that we were very hungry. ahahahha. Mohamad and Somy brought us to the Armenian Quarter, to one of his favorite places to eat roast chicken. It was literally one of the most delicious roasted chicken ive ever tasted. Either that or because we were too hungry to think. It was also freaking cold, and then we found out why. Esfahan is located about 1600m asl! no wonder it was freezin, i couldnt even function properly, it was subzero. initially we planned to walk around the quarter after dinner, then we decided it was too cold to even walk, so we sent Somy home and headed straight to Mohamad's house. He warned us to be quiet, again same like Fatima said back in Kashan, CS is illegal in Iran and so he didnt want the neighbors to find out. He also told us, to greet his parents, and then we move straight to the room. LOL.
So in we went, gave salam to his parents who were watching tv. And headed to his room. Similar to Fatima's house in Kashan, Mohamad's house had a toilet outside the house, and the shower inside the house. I guess its a typical house design in Iran. After freshening up, we went to hangout in the living room, to watch tv and of course, drink tea. Mohamad taught us how to drink tea the Esfahan way. Basically the tea is brewed without sugar, and then they have these golden sugar pieces that you should put in your mouth, and then you sip the tea. Interesting eh. But alternatively, you can also put sugar cubes in your cup of tea like normal.
We spent 3 nights in Esfahan, so I did talk and learned a fair bit about Iran from Mohamad and Somy.
I found out that the media in Iran is very controlled, including the tv shows. So most Iranian subscribe to cable tv which is illegal, but i guess everybody does it. The legal Iran tv is of course those shows and news endorsed by the govt and full of propaganda and all that. Since entertainment such as singing and stuff are not allowed in Iran, most of Iran singers and tv popstars moved to America after the 1979 revolution, filmed their tv dramas and song video clips over there, and these are shown on the illegal cable tv that Iranians subscribe to. There are no karaokes in Iran, and the cinemas show Iranian movies that follow the Islamic rules so to speak.
Mohamad's parents are practicing Muslims. Mohamad said his parents must like my cousin and I very much because we are also Muslims, and we wear the hijab the proper way ,as in not a single strand of hair showing, unlike in Iran where most women just drapes a shawl over their head with hair showing at the front/forehead, mainly because they are only doing it because they are following the bare minimum of Islamic rules in Iran. Of course there were also alot of women who wear proper hijab in Iran, especially in Shiraz, the people there are supposedly more religious, at least thats what it looks like by way of appearance. But to me, appearance doesnt mean everything.
Mohamad said he used to practice Islamic teachings, he prays and has been to umrah, he even said he used to memorize the whole Quran, he understands arabic as well, as he learned archaic arabic in school when he was younger.. but now he said he's disillusioned with Islam. he claims he's an atheist, he doesnt pray anymore, i forgot to ask if he fasts during Ramadhan. The reasons he's not practicing Islam anymore is really disheartening to know, actually. Him, as most of the youth in Iran, are angry with the government. See, the govt imposes these strict Islamic rules of law in Iran, hence so many things are controlled like the media (nothing sexy can be shown, for e.g.), all women must cover their hair, all women must wear lose clothing and the blouses must cover the butt, men can't wear shorts, men and women cannot live in the same house together unless you are family or married, entertainment centers such as karaoke doesnt exist, singing is not allowed, alcohol is illegal, and many more. So these youths feel very restricted and cant enjoy their lives, yet they see all these things on tv and in movies, and also alot of Iranians have been to Malaysia and they compare why Malaysia is a muslim country yet we are free to do alot of things, how we can be an islamic country yet also moderate and kinda secular and we dont have any restrictions like that.. (well we are a multi racial country actually, only 60% is muslim). back to the govt, with them imposing these islamic rules, yet they are also corrupted and actually do these restricted things themselves, at least behind closed doors. Furthermore, because of these restrictions in their way of life which they feel are forcefully imposed on themselves, they have a negative view of Islam. Hence most are only Islam in name, but doesnt practice, just like Mohamad. Its a pity really that it has come to this. The very thing that the govt is trying to achieve (a truly Islamic country) is moving people away from Islam. You know its human nature that people are more tempted to the stuff they are not allowed to do. But this is not the first time ive heard this. Back in Korea, i attended the Busan International Film Festival, an annual event. I went to see one of the movies directed by an Iranian guy, but the movie was about Palestine. Anyway, after the movie, i went to talk to him a little, but rather than ask about his movie, I asked him about Iran. And the sentiment i got from him is exactly the same as what i got from Mohamad. Youths are angry and frustrated.
I also found out from Somy that appearance and what they do in public is very important. For e.g., on one of the days we were in Esfahan, it was a public holiday (Prophet Muhammad's birthday), so we went out that day with Somy and her friend. Before that, she reminded me not to mention about her having a boyfriend, i.e. Mohamad, to her friend. So, she even had to hide the fact that she has a boyfriend (which she calls her fiance) from her friend. In fact, I also found out that even Somy's family doesnt know that she has a boyfriend, and Mohamad's family also doesnt know that he has a girlfriend. Yet both of them hang out together alot obviously (they met when Mohamad was an english teacher and Somy was a student of his, around 2 years ago). And whenever we hangout with Somy and Mohamad, Somy always had to go home by 8pm because it wouldnt look good to people and her family if she stayed out too late. The youth feel restricted not only by the govt, but they are also 'governed' by the culture and perception of Iranian people, especially the elderly, their parents, their family etc. Somy's friend whom we went out with is currently working towards getting a visa and emigrate to Canada. Because life in Iran is hard and restrictive and all that. Its also hard life for Iranians because of the sanctions, which have been around for 1-2 decades right, meaning for people like Somy and Mohamad, half of their lives have lived under the sanctions.
Mohamad however, preferred Ahmadinejad rather than Hassan Rouhani. He said the former was more vocal and did more action in fighting corruption in the govt when he was President. so in this regard, he was not in the mainstream where most people including Hamoon who did not like Ahmadinejad, not just in Iran but in the world. Mohamad came ot Malaysia before, to take his IELTS test actually, he was here for 2 weeks. He said in the middle of KL, and from his stories he told me, he went to bars and clubs (a famous one where tourists frequent in the heart of KL), his friends even brought back girls to their apartment after their night out (but he didnt, according to him), they drank beer, and he said the girls in Malaysia are very sexy. Well, this really depends on which part of KL, or anywhere in Malaysia you go. hahahaha. He also asked why he saw women (some, not all obviously) in Malaysia who wear the hijab but wear really tight clothes. yes, one of the signs of Qiamah, "women cover themselves but appear naked anyway. Mohamad wants to emigrate from Iran, but of course its not easy, he also needs money, and he doesnt think he has any qualifications to work elsewhere. one time when we came home after a day out with Somy and her friend, we spent a few minutes talking to his Mom, and funnily enough, his mom was pouring her heart out to us about Mohamad, hahahaha. she was worried that Mohamad doesnt want to marry and would not even discuss the issue (Mohamad's sister is married and has a 2 year old kid which is super cute omg). I never told this to Mohamad though. everynight we would hangout in the living room drinking tea and this is usually the time when we would talk. During the day my cousin and I would go sight seeing in town, Mohamad stays at home because he has to study, but at night we'd just talk. One of the nights my cousin slept early, so it was just me and him, and I had to show him my pictures with Somy and her friend secretly because he doesnt want his mom to see (she watches tv in another room where there is a bed that she can lie down, we were in the main living room, but still had to be careful). Mohamad even requested to see my hair. lol. typical requests ive gotten from a few of my non-Malaysian friends. Anyway, Mohamad is really nice and considerate as a person, he was helpful, always picking us up and sending us, helping us buy bus tickets and all that and was a really good host. If he didnt have finals to study for, im sure we would have had more time to hangout around the city. His parents seem to be used to Mohamad bringing back foreigners home because of his couchsurfing activities, haha. Mohamad says he doesnt really like hosting westerners and europeans, and prefer Asians and chinese.
So many things i talked about with Mohamad, but for now this is all what i recall.
Oh there is one thing i forgot to mention. When in Kashan, I told you that Mostafa works as a tour guide right. That week, he was a tour guide for an American. We found out that Americans and British and Canadians are not allowed to travel anywhere in Iran without a registered guide. They can only be on their own in their hotel or wherever they are staying, but the moment they step out of their hotel door, they must have a tour guide with them, its required by law. hahahahahhaha. how interesting!! and how pitiful ;p
How Iranians brew their tea. The pot below is where they boil the hot water. Above the pot, is a smaller teapot where they would brew highly concentrated tea. When the water is boiled, they would pour only a small amount of tea in the cup, and then dilute it with the boiled water.
TBC
Abyaneh & Esfahan
Day 4 continued
Next it was about 2.5 hours drive to Abyaneh village.. The reason we had to hire a driver and car was because this place was out of the way, while making our way to Esfahan. I slept all the way during the drive. It was super cold in Abyaneh, and the place was literally empty, either that or most of the villagers are hiding inside their houses, hehe.
Inline image 1Inline image 4Inline image 3Inline image 2
Then it was another 2 hours drive to Esfahan. Otw from Abyaneh to Esfahan, we pass through the Natanz area. In case you're not familiar with Iran's nuclear program, Natanz is where their uranium enrichment facility is located at. I've heard stories of tourists being caught or deported right away from Iran when they were caught taking pictures from the bus or the car they were travelling in while passing through this area. I was really looking forward to having a look at the nuclear facility actually, but i ended up sleeping the whole way again, so missed totally missed it. haha. oh well. Sometime during the drive from Kashan to Abyaneh to Esfahan, i was in contact with my host in Esfahan, I gave her number to our driver and vice versa, so they could contact each other since i didnt have a local sim card. By the time we reached Esfahan, we waited somewhere near the bus stop for Mohamad our host to pick us up.
We paid our driver, went to Mohamad's car and we drove around Esfahan. Mohamad is currently doing his Masters in English literature, and the week we were there was his finals, so he was supposed to be studying. hahahahha. but he was kind enough to host us. He told us that when his girlfriend Somy (the original host that I requested to surf with) asked whether he could host us instead because she had guests in her house, he was very excited because we were Malaysians, and instantly agreed. He's a funny guy really, kept saying OMG all the time. Traffic was crazy that night, as always according to Mohamad, what more it was rush hour after working hours.
We decided to drive around Esfahan, while waiting for Somy to finish work at 6pm. By the time we picked her up, we were famished. We havent had a proper meal since morning, only munching on dried apples slices we bought in Abyaneh and a box of assorted nuts (walnuts, pistachio, berries, peanuts) given to us by Hamoon. Infact, our driver actually told Mohamad when he was 'handing us over' that we were very hungry. ahahahha. Mohamad and Somy brought us to the Armenian Quarter, to one of his favorite places to eat roast chicken. It was literally one of the most delicious roasted chicken ive ever tasted. Either that or because we were too hungry to think. It was also freaking cold, and then we found out why. Esfahan is located about 1600m asl! no wonder it was freezin, i couldnt even function properly, it was subzero. initially we planned to walk around the quarter after dinner, then we decided it was too cold to even walk, so we sent Somy home and headed straight to Mohamad's house. He warned us to be quiet, again same like Fatima said back in Kashan, CS is illegal in Iran and so he didnt want the neighbors to find out. He also told us, to greet his parents, and then we move straight to the room. LOL.
So in we went, gave salam to his parents who were watching tv. And headed to his room. Similar to Fatima's house in Kashan, Mohamad's house had a toilet outside the house, and the shower inside the house. I guess its a typical house design in Iran. After freshening up, we went to hangout in the living room, to watch tv and of course, drink tea. Mohamad taught us how to drink tea the Esfahan way. Basically the tea is brewed without sugar, and then they have these golden sugar pieces that you should put in your mouth, and then you sip the tea. Interesting eh. But alternatively, you can also put sugar cubes in your cup of tea like normal.
We spent 3 nights in Esfahan, so I did talk and learned a fair bit about Iran from Mohamad and Somy.
I found out that the media in Iran is very controlled, including the tv shows. So most Iranian subscribe to cable tv which is illegal, but i guess everybody does it. The legal Iran tv is of course those shows and news endorsed by the govt and full of propaganda and all that. Since entertainment such as singing and stuff are not allowed in Iran, most of Iran singers and tv popstars moved to America after the 1979 revolution, filmed their tv dramas and song video clips over there, and these are shown on the illegal cable tv that Iranians subscribe to. There are no karaokes in Iran, and the cinemas show Iranian movies that follow the Islamic rules so to speak.
Mohamad's parents are practicing Muslims. Mohamad said his parents must like my cousin and I very much because we are also Muslims, and we wear the hijab the proper way ,as in not a single strand of hair showing, unlike in Iran where most women just drapes a shawl over their head with hair showing at the front/forehead, mainly because they are only doing it because they are following the bare minimum of Islamic rules in Iran. Of course there were also alot of women who wear proper hijab in Iran, especially in Shiraz, the people there are supposedly more religious, at least thats what it looks like by way of appearance. But to me, appearance doesnt mean everything.
Mohamad said he used to practice Islamic teachings, he prays and has been to umrah, he even said he used to memorize the whole Quran, he understands arabic as well, as he learned archaic arabic in school when he was younger.. but now he said he's disillusioned with Islam. he claims he's an atheist, he doesnt pray anymore, i forgot to ask if he fasts during Ramadhan. The reasons he's not practicing Islam anymore is really disheartening to know, actually. Him, as most of the youth in Iran, are angry with the government. See, the govt imposes these strict Islamic rules of law in Iran, hence so many things are controlled like the media (nothing sexy can be shown, for e.g.), all women must cover their hair, all women must wear lose clothing and the blouses must cover the butt, men can't wear shorts, men and women cannot live in the same house together unless you are family or married, entertainment centers such as karaoke doesnt exist, singing is not allowed, alcohol is illegal, and many more. So these youths feel very restricted and cant enjoy their lives, yet they see all these things on tv and in movies, and also alot of Iranians have been to Malaysia and they compare why Malaysia is a muslim country yet we are free to do alot of things, how we can be an islamic country yet also moderate and kinda secular and we dont have any restrictions like that.. (well we are a multi racial country actually, only 60% is muslim). back to the govt, with them imposing these islamic rules, yet they are also corrupted and actually do these restricted things themselves, at least behind closed doors. Furthermore, because of these restrictions in their way of life which they feel are forcefully imposed on themselves, they have a negative view of Islam. Hence most are only Islam in name, but doesnt practice, just like Mohamad. Its a pity really that it has come to this. The very thing that the govt is trying to achieve (a truly Islamic country) is moving people away from Islam. You know its human nature that people are more tempted to the stuff they are not allowed to do. But this is not the first time ive heard this. Back in Korea, i attended the Busan International Film Festival, an annual event. I went to see one of the movies directed by an Iranian guy, but the movie was about Palestine. Anyway, after the movie, i went to talk to him a little, but rather than ask about his movie, I asked him about Iran. And the sentiment i got from him is exactly the same as what i got from Mohamad. Youths are angry and frustrated.
I also found out from Somy that appearance and what they do in public is very important. For e.g., on one of the days we were in Esfahan, it was a public holiday (Prophet Muhammad's birthday), so we went out that day with Somy and her friend. Before that, she reminded me not to mention about her having a boyfriend, i.e. Mohamad, to her friend. So, she even had to hide the fact that she has a boyfriend (which she calls her fiance) from her friend. In fact, I also found out that even Somy's family doesnt know that she has a boyfriend, and Mohamad's family also doesnt know that he has a girlfriend. Yet both of them hang out together alot obviously (they met when Mohamad was an english teacher and Somy was a student of his, around 2 years ago). And whenever we hangout with Somy and Mohamad, Somy always had to go home by 8pm because it wouldnt look good to people and her family if she stayed out too late. The youth feel restricted not only by the govt, but they are also 'governed' by the culture and perception of Iranian people, especially the elderly, their parents, their family etc. Somy's friend whom we went out with is currently working towards getting a visa and emigrate to Canada. Because life in Iran is hard and restrictive and all that. Its also hard life for Iranians because of the sanctions, which have been around for 1-2 decades right, meaning for people like Somy and Mohamad, half of their lives have lived under the sanctions.
Mohamad however, preferred Ahmadinejad rather than Hassan Rouhani. He said the former was more vocal and did more action in fighting corruption in the govt when he was President. so in this regard, he was not in the mainstream where most people including Hamoon who did not like Ahmadinejad, not just in Iran but in the world. Mohamad came ot Malaysia before, to take his IELTS test actually, he was here for 2 weeks. He said in the middle of KL, and from his stories he told me, he went to bars and clubs (a famous one where tourists frequent in the heart of KL), his friends even brought back girls to their apartment after their night out (but he didnt, according to him), they drank beer, and he said the girls in Malaysia are very sexy. Well, this really depends on which part of KL, or anywhere in Malaysia you go. hahahaha. He also asked why he saw women (some, not all obviously) in Malaysia who wear the hijab but wear really tight clothes. yes, one of the signs of Qiamah, "women cover themselves but appear naked anyway. Mohamad wants to emigrate from Iran, but of course its not easy, he also needs money, and he doesnt think he has any qualifications to work elsewhere. one time when we came home after a day out with Somy and her friend, we spent a few minutes talking to his Mom, and funnily enough, his mom was pouring her heart out to us about Mohamad, hahahaha. she was worried that Mohamad doesnt want to marry and would not even discuss the issue (Mohamad's sister is married and has a 2 year old kid which is super cute omg). I never told this to Mohamad though. everynight we would hangout in the living room drinking tea and this is usually the time when we would talk. During the day my cousin and I would go sight seeing in town, Mohamad stays at home because he has to study, but at night we'd just talk. One of the nights my cousin slept early, so it was just me and him, and I had to show him my pictures with Somy and her friend secretly because he doesnt want his mom to see (she watches tv in another room where there is a bed that she can lie down, we were in the main living room, but still had to be careful). Mohamad even requested to see my hair. lol. typical requests ive gotten from a few of my non-Malaysian friends. Anyway, Mohamad is really nice and considerate as a person, he was helpful, always picking us up and sending us, helping us buy bus tickets and all that and was a really good host. If he didnt have finals to study for, im sure we would have had more time to hangout around the city. His parents seem to be used to Mohamad bringing back foreigners home because of his couchsurfing activities, haha. Mohamad says he doesnt really like hosting westerners and europeans, and prefer Asians and chinese.
So many things i talked about with Mohamad, but for now this is all what i recall.
Oh there is one thing i forgot to mention. When in Kashan, I told you that Mostafa works as a tour guide right. That week, he was a tour guide for an American. We found out that Americans and British and Canadians are not allowed to travel anywhere in Iran without a registered guide. They can only be on their own in their hotel or wherever they are staying, but the moment they step out of their hotel door, they must have a tour guide with them, its required by law. hahahahahhaha. how interesting!! and how pitiful ;p
How Iranians brew their tea. The pot below is where they boil the hot water. Above the pot, is a smaller teapot where they would brew highly concentrated tea. When the water is boiled, they would pour only a small amount of tea in the cup, and then dilute it with the boiled water.
TBC
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